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Thread: CVX-20 Motor, Pump, Interior, and Paint

  1. #11

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    Re: CVX-20 Motor, Pump, Interior, and Paint

    well, getting to those engine mount bolts was fun and greasy and tricky and actually not fun, but once disconnected, lifting it up and off was relatively easy. pictures to show the mega-beam that i built solely to do this job.

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    now gotta leave it hanging for four days during our mini vacation in the 1000 islands, where i'd normally HAVE this toy :(

    then build a cradle for it to put in the truck and bring it to the pros. thanks again everyone, and happy 4th!

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  3. #12

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    Re: CVX-20 Motor, Pump, Interior, and Paint

    Quote Originally Posted by Karsten View Post
    I have the same boat in need of a floor, stringers and I fear now a whole lot more....Starting to wonder how much I really like this boat these days?

    Karsten
    your thread was the one i almost commented in. luckily for me, my floor and stringers feel rock solid. i hope you find the motivation to stick it out! nothing prettier on the water in my opinion.

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  5. #13

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    Re: CVX-20 Motor, Pump, Interior, and Paint

    Anyone know how the hell one might change the oil in a CVX-20 while the engine (Ford 460) is in the boat? The drain plug is virtually inaccessible, and there's nowhere to drain to, as it's the lowest point and there's just about no room underneath in the engine bay.

    Also, it looks like a another starter mount point on the bottom-inside of my bell housing... it's completely open, and has been that way since I bought the boat. Is that normal? If I'm carrying any water, surely the ring gear would sling it all over the place, and up into the starter. I'm thinking about making a plate to bolt over it. Seems crazy to me that the ring gear would be exposed like that. Picture for reference:

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  6. #14
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    Re: CVX-20 Motor, Pump, Interior, and Paint

    For changing oil I installed a hose fitting on the rear bung of oil pan. I don't have the Berk 460 front sump pan anymore though (in fact never used it! Hardin 10qt pan now!!!) I have a pump that I attach to hose and vacuum oil out vs drain. Only other alternative is a catch pan under the transom plug. (YUCK) And yes, that is a stock upper or lower Berk Pack-a-jet bell housing. If water ever got that high I would be sunk LOL. Its well above stringer height when motor is mounted.
    Heavy Lake Lay Up Family Boat Ready To Race Any Takers

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  8. #15
    Redeye1620's Avatar
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    Re: CVX-20 Motor, Pump, Interior, and Paint

    Quote Originally Posted by kstarr View Post
    Anyone know how the hell one might change the oil in a CVX-20 while the engine (Ford 460) is in the boat? The drain plug is virtually inaccessible, and there's nowhere to drain to, as it's the lowest point and there's just about no room underneath in the engine bay.

    Also, it looks like a another starter mount point on the bottom-inside of my bell housing... it's completely open, and has been that way since I bought the boat. Is that normal? If I'm carrying any water, surely the ring gear would sling it all over the place, and up into the starter. I'm thinking about making a plate to bolt over it. Seems crazy to me that the ring gear would be exposed like that. Picture for reference:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    On my CV23, for changing the oil I purchased a 12 volt oil pump that puts a small hose down the dip stick tube. Works great with warm oil. You may also have a bung welded to the side of the pan & install a ez drain valve with a hose that runs out the hull drain. The starter mount hole should have a large black plastic plug covering the hole. I stopped using the top mount starter & use a mini starter in the bottom mount. No more grinding gears on the flexplate....-Rich
    FIVE HUNDRED AND FORTY FIVE CUBIC INCHES BABY
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    t's a budget build, the grocery budget.

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    Re: CVX-20 Motor, Pump, Interior, and Paint

    Quote Originally Posted by Redeye1620 View Post
    On my CV23, for changing the oil I purchased a 12 volt oil pump that puts a small hose down the dip stick tube. Works great with warm oil. You may also have a bung welded to the side of the pan & install a ez drain valve with a hose that runs out the hull drain. The starter mount hole should have a large black plastic plug covering the hole. I stopped using the top mount starter & use a mini starter in the bottom mount. No more grinding gears on the flexplate....-Rich
    <br>
    <br>

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    Re: CVX-20 Motor, Pump, Interior, and Paint

    Don't know what happen to my post, get a remote oil drain kit from CP Performance or call Tom at JBP....They run about 30 dollars, well worth the money...Also think about a rear sump marine oil pan, Armondo makes a nice one, he is out of Texas....

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  12. #18
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    Re: CVX-20 Motor, Pump, Interior, and Paint

    Welcome. I have a champaign 79 CVX20. Virtually identical to yours. It needs painted /gelled and some interior work , but overall a B+ for its age.

    Here is my $.02 on your project.


    When removing the engine I found that removing the logs prior to removing the engine made life easier. You can wiggle the logs out of the engine bay with the snails on them. Installing the engine will be more strait-forward with the logs off.


    You will have to place the long bolts in there proper holes and tape over the heads to keep the bolts in their position (captive) prior to log install. You will never get all the bolts in with out doing this.


    Taylor ( Jegs-Summit ) sells a nice reusable aluminum gasket for the exhaust manifolds.



    If your oil lines are original to the remote filter, replace them. Look for wear points on the originals. I went with braided steel. Route them so they do not touch the logs.


    The alternate starter hole is suppose to have a plastic plug that pressed into the hole. They fall out, so making a plate cover is not a bad idea.


    Now is the time to rebuild the jet unit. Depending on your level of restoration you may / or may not leave it in the boat. A shouldered wear ring and a properly gapped modern A impeller( Al) will make a tremendous difference in performance. Now is also time to access the universals in the PTO. I did not replace mine but when the new 425hp replacement engine goes in, I plan on it.


    You are stuck with the logs unless you do all sorts of strange mods to the boat that will ruin the looks. Logs will limit the power to 425 or so. Do keep that in mind when modifying the engine. Most tubular headers are not rated for enclosed engine compartments.


    Good luck! Ask questions as the folks here are very helpful.


    The CVX is a very desirable lake boat. I actually have never seen another one on any lake I have frequented. Vintage Jets in general are very rare in Indiana.
    I plan keeping mine until I get to pontoon status.



    Dave

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  14. #19

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    Re: CVX-20 Motor, Pump, Interior, and Paint

    Quote Originally Posted by Redeye1620 View Post
    I stopped using the top mount starter & use a mini starter in the bottom mount. No more grinding gears on the flexplate....-Rich
    I have a Masco Marine starter, it's smaller and lighter, but it's mounted at the stock position on top. They still make them ($240) and you'll have to tell them it needs to counter-rotate of course if you put it on top (at least I think I remember it being counter-rotating, not sure which position was used on the 460 for autos). Why was yours grinding and how did mounting on the bottom fix it? Or was it the mini starter that solved that?

    Quote Originally Posted by GA JET SR View Post
    Also think about a rear sump marine oil pan, Armondo makes a nice one, he is out of Texas....
    I might put the engine rebuild on hold - running compression and leak tests tomorrow to see what's necessary. I've suspected a very slow oil leak for awhile (water in the hull has been so mucky I can't tell what's new or old). If I do rebuild it before putting it back in, I'll probably replace the pan. Maybe. hah.


    Quote Originally Posted by "THE ADVOCATE" View Post
    If water ever got that high I would be sunk LOL. Its well above stringer height when motor is mounted.
    Well, I did actually have water that high once - the gasket between the exhaust manifold and the snail (as I'm seeing they're called) blew and that was a pretty watery situation... geyser strong enough to come up through the engine lid seam. In fact, my not-high-enough-temperature-rated, automotive, island-made replacement gasket is another reason I wanted to pull and work on the engine.

    Quote Originally Posted by Revved View Post

    When removing the engine I found that removing the logs prior to removing the engine made life easier.
    [...]
    Taylor ( Jegs-Summit ) sells a nice reusable aluminum gasket for the exhaust manifolds.

    If your oil lines are original to the remote filter, replace them. Look for wear points on the originals. I went with braided steel. Route them so they do not touch the logs.

    The alternate starter hole is suppose to have a plastic plug that pressed into the hole. They fall out, so making a plate cover is not a bad idea.

    Now is the time to rebuild the jet unit. Depending on your level of restoration you may / or may not leave it in the boat. A shouldered wear ring and a properly gapped modern A impeller( Al) will make a tremendous difference in performance. Now is also time to access the universals in the PTO. I did not replace mine but when the new 425hp replacement engine goes in, I plan on it.

    You are stuck with the logs unless you do all sorts of strange mods to the boat that will ruin the looks. Logs will limit the power to 425 or so. Do keep that in mind when modifying the engine. Most tubular headers are not rated for enclosed engine compartments.

    Good luck! Ask questions as the folks here are very helpful.

    The CVX is a very desirable lake boat. I actually have never seen another one on any lake I have frequented. Vintage Jets in general are very rare in Indiana.
    I plan keeping mine until I get to pontoon status.

    Dave
    Didn't remove the logs, saw that the bolts were too long to come out, didn't feel like doing it while sitting on the uncomfortable part of the boat. One of the snails is off (the one whose gasket sprung a leak last year). The other is being a son of a bitch - I think it's welded on. Speaking of those, I don't really have any interest in replacing or modifying the exhaust or the engine. I'm not after any extra horsepower, just a nice, clean, stock setup. I like simplicity and originality - if I start modding things I'll get in over my head.

    A little more guidance on Taylor Jegs-Summit? My google skills are failing me.

    Braided steel oil lines are definitely in my future. The black, greasy stock ones are gross.

    Glad to get some validation on the alternate starter hole issue, didn't know there used to be a plastic cover for it. I'll definitely fabricate a plate and cover it up.

    I'm pulling the pump and (might be) sending the impeller to the guys at Place Diverter, otherwise buying a new aluminum A-cut and also ordering a hydraulic kit. Tim Place tells me the CVX-20's cable routing won't work with the manual. Anyone have experience one way or the other?

    LOL'd at pontoon status. Yeah, mine's a keeper too. I haven't seen another one in the 1000 Islands (St. Lawrence River) but admittedly I don't go many other places. Although I recently moved to Western NY so I'll drag it down to the Finger Lakes at some point.

    So, for future oil changes, sounds like remote oil drain kit is the way to go. I had wondered if anything could fit down the dipstick hole, interesting but I'm guessing that would be slow and probably uncertain that you'd gotten all the old oil from the bottom of the pan. I'll get the hose to replace the drain plug and a pump to make it quick - probably ought to keep that hose at a high point when the boat is in use, then lower it down towards the hull drain when I go to change the oil.

    'Preciate all the replies, fellas!
    Last edited by kstarr; 07-09-2016 at 09:44 AM.

  15. #20
    Redeye1620's Avatar
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    Re: CVX-20 Motor, Pump, Interior, and Paint

    Quote Originally Posted by kstarr View Post
    I have a Masco Marine starter, it's smaller and lighter, but it's mounted at the stock position on top. They still make them ($240) and you'll have to tell them it needs to counter-rotate of course if you put it on top (at least I think I remember it being counter-rotating, not sure which position was used on the 460 for autos). Why was yours grinding and how did mounting on the bottom fix it? Or was it the mini starter that solved that?



    So, for future oil changes, sounds like remote oil drain kit is the way to go. I had wondered if anything could fit down the dipstick hole, interesting but I'm guessing that would be slow and probably uncertain that you'd gotten all the old oil from the bottom of the pan. I'll get the hose to replace the drain plug and a pump to make it quick - probably ought to keep that host at a high point when the boat is in use, then lower it down towards the hull drain when I go to change the oil.

    'Preciate all the replies, fellas!

    Google ford top mount starter and you will read mulitple posts with ill fitting starter alignment and grinding. I had my top mount rebuilt with new everything and still had the grinding problem. Replacing it with a stock rotation mini in the lower position solved the problem.

    On the oil pan problem an Armondo's 10 qt is cheap insurance. High rpms with a 5 qt front sump pan is a disaster waiting to happen. I had them install a second bung in my pan for an oil temp sending unit. Then I installed an ez drain valve with a barb for a 3/8" hose long enough to be pulled thru the hull drain. BUT, the 12 volt pump does work just as good....-Rich
    FIVE HUNDRED AND FORTY FIVE CUBIC INCHES BABY
    I
    t's a budget build, the grocery budget.

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