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Thread: Subfloor Rot :-(

  1. #21

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    Re: Subfloor Rot :-(

    Nice work Chad!
    Been there many, many times on winter projects. The ONLY way to do it correctly is to completely remove the rotted wood and start over. That rot repair stuff is just a band aid and imo should never be used. ever. The only way to restore the intergrity of the center stringer and floor is to replace them with a new center stringer and floor. If it were me I'd use nothing but poly or tooling resin, I don't like epoxy, but thats me. Besides it's your project. On older Tahiti's that center stringer wasn't even glassed in or coated with resin. It's only job was to hold the floor up. There was so much glass in the hulls back then they'd never flex. My old '65 had a keel that was 1 1/8 inch thick. I'd replace yours exactly like it was, sitting on a bed of wet mat and then encapsulated in glass. Should last at least another 40 years.

    I love the pic of the termites, I'm going to save it to my file of boat stuff, never seen that before.

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  3. #22
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    Re: Subfloor Rot :-(

    Quote Originally Posted by old rigger View Post
    Nice work Chad!
    Been there many, many times on winter projects. The ONLY way to do it correctly is to completely remove the rotted wood and start over. That rot repair stuff is just a band aid and imo should never be used. ever. The only way to restore the intergrity of the center stringer and floor is to replace them with a new center stringer and floor. If it were me I'd use nothing but poly or tooling resin, I don't like epoxy, but thats me. Besides it's your project. On older Tahiti's that center stringer wasn't even glassed in or coated with resin. It's only job was to hold the floor up. There was so much glass in the hulls back then they'd never flex. My old '65 had a keel that was 1 1/8 inch thick. I'd replace yours exactly like it was, sitting on a bed of wet mat and then encapsulated in glass. Should last at least another 40 years.

    I love the pic of the termites, I'm going to save it to my file of boat stuff, never seen that before.
    Hey there rigger! Always glad to hear your perspective on these old floats. You're 100% correct that the center stringer was barely glassed in. It had 1 layer of mat kind of halfheartedly attached to the hull.

    Regarding the hull flex, I've actually noticed that if you walk on the part of the hull that was under the floor there is a small amount of flex. It's not "soft spot" kind of flex. It feels solid, just moves is bit. When I sit on the gunnels they flex a bit too. I'm about 200#. Our current plan is to use Core Cel to create a boxed matrix under the floor for added strength and support. Toying with the idea of tying it into the original 1/4 stringers as well to really stiffen her up. My buddy did something similar on his 26' fishing boat and "accidentally" jumped a 10' swell, came out of the water and landed on the transom. Not a single stress crack to be found. I'm not going to be jumping waves in a Tahiti but if it worked to stiffen his hull it should work for mine too :)

  4. #23
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    Re: Subfloor Rot :-(

    Chad, don't believe that you will never jump that boat.....it happens! Peddling helps but only keeps them level and getting back in makes for better landing spots. An ear for RPM and a foot to drive through the landing is 90% of the sickness. Whats weird is my youngest daughter loves unexpected jumps but hates nice controlled donuts?
    Heavy Lake Lay Up Family Boat Ready To Race Any Takers

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  6. #24

    Re: Subfloor Rot :-(

    Jason is so right... naturally, the first half dozen or so jumps were not planned, but rather wakes that snuck up on us (hard to see them at speed if there is any wind chop). But this last summer I found myself following wake board boats and jumping intentionally. It is an absolute blast, and the look on jet skier's faces when they see a boat doing what they love to do is priceless. It took me awhile to gain the confidence in my boats integrity and the ear Jason refers to. I suppose every boat is different. Certainly not all these old boats lend themselves to a thorough beating.

    A couple seasons ago I took a 70 mph ride with a local guy in a Rogers in some nasty chop at Ruth. That Rogers felt like a solid piece of porcelain as we went air-born multiple times. It changed my whole perception on what some of these boats can do. When in doubt, Floor it! Nice work on that floor btw
    Oh for cryin out loud... the boat's name is Princess! Are you happy now?

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  8. #25
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    Re: Subfloor Rot :-(

    OK, great to know! Even more reason to reinforce it all! LOL! Thanks guys :)

  9. #26
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    Re: Subfloor Rot :-(

    Wow, 3 months have gone by! Time for a progress update...

    It took a total of 4 sessions to get the inside of the hull stripped and ready for re-assembly. By "session" I mean 3-4 hours of grinding and sanding and resting, which is about all my outta shape ass could handle at once before muscle failure started to creep in, LOL!

    So here are a couple shots of the back part of the hull all sanded. Don't have pics of the front but it's similar...
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  11. #27
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    Re: Subfloor Rot :-(

    This past weekend I pulled the trigger on some CoreCel and associated products from the local fiberglass gurus. BOAT lived up to it's name!

    My buddy came over who'd done this before and we went at it. At 1st we tried to vacuum bag a few pieces but it wasn't quite working right on the dry runs. After wasting a couple hours on that we turned to stringer and support layout. I'm pretty happy with how this is turning out. I think it'll be a decent compromise between a 1/4 stringer and a full stringer.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    We extended the stringers 23". The extensions are 2 layers of 3/4" CoreCel that will be vacuum bagged together. The 2 long cross pieces are 3/4" CoreCel that will be the base for the rear seat. The long center support rib will also be 2 layers of 3/4" CoreCel vacuum bagged together. These are all notched and inter-locked. There will be additional cross bracing under the floor in 4 more places as indicated by the small triangle piece. We'll thicken some resin to make a putty that will bond the pieces to the floor, then Knytex the whole shibang in place. We're looking to make the center rib and floor all stressed members of the boat to help with rigidity. Expanding "never rot" pour foam will fill the voids.

    2-3 more days of work and it ought to look like something. Soooo.... figure an update in a few months?? LOL!

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  13. #28
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    Re: Subfloor Rot :-(

    Hard part is almost over man! Chin up!!!
    Heavy Lake Lay Up Family Boat Ready To Race Any Takers

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  15. #29
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    Re: Subfloor Rot :-(

    After a short hiatus I've been getting back on the boat again. My older boy wanted to try Kart racing with the SCCA so that's been taking a lot of my time... and money! Been been able to put maybe 4 days in on the boat since May. Hoping now that progress is starting to show it'll snowball and be done before I know it. That's how it works, right!?? LOL!

    Anyway, here are a few pics of what's been done. Back in June we vacuum bagged the new structural pieces. There's a layer of Nytex and resin between the 2 pieces of foam, then it was drawn down to about 25" of vacuum. We didn't want to go to deep with the vacuum and crush the foam, plus it was a pain to get it any lower so we called it good!

    My buddy is in commercial refrigeration and had some bad ass vacuum pumps. We used his little one...
    Click image for larger version. 

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    We 1st pulled vacuum on the tank and it was used to give the bag an initial "hit" and bring the vacuum in more quickly.
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    A jet boat project is like dating a hot chick who doesn't put out.
    Alaska Hawaii, Shipping Here Is Terrible!" (AH, $hit Club)

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  17. #30
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    Re: Subfloor Rot :-(

    The next step was to attach the new pieces to the hull...
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    A jet boat project is like dating a hot chick who doesn't put out.
    Alaska Hawaii, Shipping Here Is Terrible!" (AH, $hit Club)

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