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lowfunds
04-12-2013, 07:48 PM
ok so most of you know i am running a blown 454 and have a few questions before i commit myself to anything. being i should not run a thermostat/bypass system i figured i would run down what i think is the right way to plumb my system. #1 being water in to my adjustable pressure regulator with blow off then to my sediment filter. #2 out of the filter to my engine crossover tube. #3 out of my intake thermostatless housing with 2 3/4" hoses overboard discharge. as for the water injected headers i was either gonna run another line out of my thermostatless housing thru a electronic water valve which will be activated by my igniton system rpm window switch to my headers. or i could run it out of one of the intake temp sender holes. my concern is that water is gonna take the path of the least resitance and not flow well thru the back of the cylinder heads or rear of the block. maybe i am over thinking this but tell me what you think. if you think i can do something different now is the time for me to make the change. thanks

brite
04-13-2013, 07:36 AM
I am also trying to find the best / simplest / cleanest plumbing setup. I have read numerous cooling diagrams on this site and others, and am still very undecided which route to take. It seems everyone does it differently in at least some way or the other. One would think that there must be a standard way to do this. I was planning doing mine like this : in from pump to regulator with blow off hose going thru transom, to some sort of strainer, then to a regular t fitting , then 2 hoses from that to the engine. One hose from intake thermo water housing (no thermostat, just a plate w/ 2 fittings tapped into it) to a Bassett tee fitting going to header lines, the other hose off the thermo housing going to a gate valve then thru the transom. I was told you needed to have a gate there to build enough pressure to send water thru the headers. I THINK GUYS NEED TO POST WHAT WORKS FOR THEM.... GIVE US SOME GOOD IDEAS. SIMPLE CLEAN AND EFFECTIVE.

brite
04-13-2013, 07:55 AM
Also, in my opinion, the electronic valve and rpm switch idea is definitely cool, but it is just more parts that can fail. If u use a basset tee fitting, it will only let water thru once it gets over so many psi, say 15 or so and it will be regulated for certain rpm with the dump valve.. I'm totally new to this also, I'm solely going from what IV read. Check this out.

http://www.jetboatperformance.biz/pages/FAQ.html

T8er S.
04-13-2013, 08:06 AM
I am also trying to find the best / simplest / cleanest plumbing setup. I have read numerous cooling diagrams on this site and others, and am still very undecided which route to take. It seems everyone does it differently in at least some way or the other. One would think that there must be a standard way to do this. I was planning doing mine like this : in from pump to regulator with blow off hose going thru transom, to some sort of strainer, then to a regular t fitting , then 2 hoses from that to the engine. One hose from intake thermo water housing (no thermostat, just a plate w/ 2 fittings tapped into it) to a Bassett tee fitting going to header lines, the other hose off the thermo housing going to a gate valve then thru the transom. I was told you needed to have a gate there to build enough pressure to send water thru the headers. I THINK GUYS NEED TO POST WHAT WORKS FOR THEM.... GIVE US SOME GOOD IDEAS. SIMPLE CLEAN AND EFFECTIVE.

Never heard of a gate valve before going out the transom, the idea of the tee valve is to keep water out of the headers at low rpm to avoid sucking it into the cylinders. This is how mine is plumbed ignore the thermostat, don't know about blower motors they may have some extra stuff?..
9794Hope this helps. :spit:

T8er S.
04-13-2013, 08:16 AM
Here's the log version..
9795:boater:

David
04-13-2013, 08:26 AM
Never heard of a gate valve before going out the transom, the idea of the tee valve is to keep water out of the headers at low rpm to avoid sucking it into the cylinders. This is how mine is plumbed, don't know about blower motors they may have some extra stuff?..
9794Hope this helps. :spit:
The only thing I'd do different is use a gate valve instead of the ball valve, I've been warned that something could hit that ball valve handle and close off your water and cause your engine to overheat or open up too much and blow your head gaskets... Best to use gate valve style where you turn the handle...

And... No thermostat...

I think blower motor is same set up... Doug???

Oh and I have a gate valve on both ends Darren...

White Lightning
04-13-2013, 08:43 AM
Automotive engines are set up so that the water flow through the front of the head gasket is restricted by the coolant holes in the head gasket being smaller than the holes at the rear of the gasket which promotes flow toward the rear of the block, up through the rear of the head then toward the front of the head into the intake crossover and out through the thermostat housing. The block and heads have the same size holes (although sometimes fewer of them) so in all actuality the flow COULD be rearanged to flow more toward the front (like in a BBF application where the intake can physically be turned around (not taking into account the carburater pad angle on stockish manifolds) in order to clean up the front of the engine and hide the connections at the rear). When installing head gaskets be aware that there IS a front and rear, especially on the BBF's. IF one decided to change the flow characteristics of an engine be sure that there is a chance for water to flow out at the highest point of the engine in order not to trap an air pocket and cause a hot spot in the cooling system. Hope that helps.
Rob

White Lightning
04-13-2013, 08:45 AM
Also, in my opinion, the electronic valve and rpm switch idea is definitely cool, but it is just more parts that can fail. If u use a basset tee fitting, it will only let water thru once it gets over so many psi, say 15 or so and it will be regulated for certain rpm with the dump valve.. I'm totally new to this also, I'm solely going from what IV read. Check this out.

http://www.jetboatperformance.biz/pages/FAQ.html

X2.
Rob

White Lightning
04-13-2013, 08:47 AM
The only thing I'd do different is use a gate valve instead of the ball valve, I've been warned that something could hit that ball valve handle and close off your water and cause your engine to overheat or open up too much and blow your head gaskets... Best to use gate valve style where you turn the handle...

And... No thermostat...

I think blower motor is same set up... Doug???

Oh and I have a gate valve on both ends Darren...

Actually the intake to head gasket is the weak point.
Rob

T8er S.
04-13-2013, 08:49 AM
Oh and I have a gate valve on both ends Darren...[/QUOTE]

Why? :confused-smiley-013

David
04-13-2013, 09:26 AM
Oh and I have a gate valve on both ends Darren...

Why? :confused-smiley-013[/QUOTE]
I'm talking about the Galaxie here... I use the one coming in to control the pressure and the one going out to control temp...
Seems to work okay...?

The Glastron has logs and no valves at all...

johnf
04-13-2013, 11:12 AM
Headers sure look nice!!!And help Flow,but I love my logs, With giving up minimal performance, no burns(well kinda),no police, and a no-brainer hook up!! With the addition of a relief valve... Could it be Tee'd in with the bilge pump line?? Or would that be a bad Idea? Or keep it exclusive and poke a hole to drain any excess?? Thanks johnf

T8er S.
04-13-2013, 11:17 AM
Why? :confused-smiley-013
I'm talking about the Galaxie here... I use the one coming in to control the pressure and the one going out to control temp...
Seems to work okay...?

The Glastron has logs and no valves at all...[/QUOTE]

O.k., make sense, always thought the one on the pump did that. Guess there's many ways to skin a cat. :anim_chainsaw:

lowfunds
04-13-2013, 05:22 PM
i gotta ask this question cause i have no idea why you guys do it but maybe someone can answer. why do you run a gate/ball valve when water comes in from the pump and then run a pressure relief valve after the valve. isn't the pressure relief valve controlling how much water pressure is entering the block why would you need that valve. the exit valve makes some sense to me to slow water flow to increase water temp but that could also build to much pressure.

White Lightning
04-13-2013, 05:34 PM
i gotta ask this question cause i have no idea why you guys do it but maybe someone can answer. why do you run a gate/ball valve when water comes in from the pump and then run a pressure relief valve after the valve. isn't the pressure relief valve controlling how much water pressure is entering the block why would you need that valve. the exit valve makes some sense to me to slow water flow to increase water temp but that could also build to much pressure.

Well, wouldn't you want to have some way to shut off a hole in your hull in case the pressure valve failed and you had a broken line? lol Basically....redundancy.
Rob

lowfunds
04-13-2013, 05:48 PM
well thats the only reason i could think of but it seems like some guys are adjusting to change flow and temp. my jet intake tube coming in seems to have a bend and a fine thread. i would like to change it or cut it so its straight and maybe rethread for pipe thread so i can thread a valve right on the end of it.

White Lightning
04-13-2013, 07:11 PM
When I got my JG it had a 1/2" heater hose coming from the front side of the bowl in through the transom. I re-threaded them to 1/2" pipe and put -8 male flare fittings and a length of -8 braided stainless line in place of the heater hose set up, then put a 1/2" close nipple on the inside of the hull and then a gate valve, and that's all I have in the way of water control to the engine. Works like a charm for me. If one puts a larger line on the discharge side of the cooling system then there's no way that any pressure can build in the engine. Mine is all plumbed in -8 stainless lines and I don't have a lick of trouble with any of it.
Rob

brite
04-13-2013, 08:36 PM
i gotta ask this question cause i have no idea why you guys do it but maybe someone can answer. why do you run a gate/ball valve when water comes in from the pump and then run a pressure relief valve after the valve. isn't the pressure relief valve controlling how much water pressure is entering the block why would you need that valve. the exit valve makes some sense to me to slow water flow to increase water temp but that could also build to much pressure.

... I was wondering this also. Thanks for asking. So this valve will be open fully at all times. Also, what brand/model of regulator are u guys running? And do all regulators have a bleed off?

lowfunds
04-20-2013, 10:58 AM
ok so my headers seem to have two bungs welded down by the collector and i am thinking of running the two 3/4" engine water dumps to each of them to keep the exhaust silicone coupler to the exhaust tips cool when the boat is a low speed and thus not having to run another ugly thru hull fitting out the back of the boat. anyone think that would be a problem doing so.

"THE ADVOCATE"
04-20-2013, 12:50 PM
Well, I am new...but wouldn't that restrict exhaust flow? 4" collectors are big, but? 9849

"THE ADVOCATE"
04-20-2013, 01:37 PM
After some thought....my TT headers both have the bung. But they only came with one plug. I guess if you were changing from logs to headers you would still need an engine cooling water dump. Pick a side?

lowfunds
04-20-2013, 03:34 PM
all water jacketed headers dump the water out the tail of the headers so i highly doubt that would be a issue.

"THE ADVOCATE"
04-20-2013, 04:14 PM
So then, whats the point of TT open headers, except being pretty and sound cool? Jacketed headers definitely are a different beast.

White Lightning
04-20-2013, 04:48 PM
ok so my headers seem to have two bungs welded down by the collector and i am thinking of running the two 3/4" engine water dumps to each of them to keep the exhaust silicone coupler to the exhaust tips cool when the boat is a low speed and thus not having to run another ugly thru hull fitting out the back of the boat. anyone think that would be a problem doing so.

Post up a pic of the system.
Rob

lowfunds
04-20-2013, 06:33 PM
ok so maybe i forgot to say the headers are thru the transom not over so instead of running the two lines from the t-stat hsg out the transom i wanna run them to the collector headers bungs. i figured it would kill two birds with one stone. first i don't have to drill more holes in the transom for thru hull fittings and two it is a way of keeping the header collector to exhaust tip silicone coupler cool while the headers are dry. here is a header bung pic
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m135/marty_030/photo-1_zps73d5cc62.jpg (http://s103.photobucket.com/user/marty_030/media/photo-1_zps73d5cc62.jpg.html)

White Lightning
04-21-2013, 11:50 AM
Since those are boat headers exclusively I'd say that you can probably plumb the discharge lines into there just fine. Are those bungs short or are they set up as a crankcase evac deal? I'm thinking that the collecters will be full of water all the time any way, even if you have flappers on them (being underwater as they will be).
Rob

lowfunds
04-21-2013, 03:39 PM
Since those are boat headers exclusively I'd say that you can probably plumb the discharge lines into there just fine. Are those bungs short or are they set up as a crankcase evac deal? I'm thinking that the collecters will be full of water all the time any way, even if you have flappers on them (being underwater as they will be).
Robim not sure if they are for evac but i couldn't see how they would work being in water like that they are kinda short they seem to be surface mounted and about 3/4" thick. the only thing is the are going to reduce the water flow a bit from maybe 3/4" id to maybe 5/8". they are a straight thread too and i am think about maybe having them changed out to accept npt thread. i doubt i can drill larger and retap for npt i don't think there will be enough material.

White Lightning
04-21-2013, 10:31 PM
I'm pretty sure that they make SAE thread adapters to pipe thread.
Rob

wolfie
04-21-2013, 11:58 PM
The bungs in the collector are for plumbing water lines from the engine to the collector. Otherwise the rubber exhaust hoses that connect the header to the exhaust tips will melt. Even though the water exiting the engine is hot, it still helps cool the hoses.

So you should have a line that comes from the pump to the water pump inlets. Then the lines from the thermostat housing go to the bung in the collectors. You should also have a Bassett T-Valve coming off the water port on the front of the intake going to the water injection tubes on the header.