PDA

View Full Version : Fly wheel suggestions?



Gill201035
09-20-2011, 09:34 PM
Hey guys
Gave my 496 stroker a tune up and fired it up attached to a hose and this god awful noise was coming from it... I pulled the starter cause it sounds like it wasnt disengaging , got it checked and now im thinking im gonna just pull the motor to see what got in the fly wheelt and just replace it. So any recommendations on what brand or type to get? I want to do this the right way.... Also what else should i check out while the motors out? Also ive only had the boat a month.......thanks josh

wolfie
09-20-2011, 09:43 PM
What kind of starter and where is it located? Are you able to see the flywheel? Are the teeth mangled?
I had a rear mount reverse starter and it would hang up. So issue with my flexplate. I replaced the rear mount Prestolite with a hi torq starter. I've had no problems since.
There might be something else other than the starter or flywheel. Maybe some shimming?
If you give us some more info, one of the gurus that know what they're talking about (definitely not me) might chime in and give you some better info.

thompy
09-21-2011, 07:50 AM
was the pump disconnected or water lubeing the pump

David
09-21-2011, 08:20 AM
Noises coming from an engine are a funny thing...
I heard an engine running just a few weeks back that I swore the noise was coming from the pump but, it was the dang timing chain.
Good thing that the other guys there knew what they were doing cause I'd have pulled the pump for no reason!!!
Try and eliminate things like disconnecting the jet if it's possible.

thompy
09-21-2011, 08:43 AM
also stainless impellors are known to rattle when engine is idling, did you find anything wrong with the starter when you pulled it?

Gill201035
09-21-2011, 08:28 PM
Starter checked out fine cant see the teeth on the fly wheel very well but look fine as far as i can tell.... It honestly sounds like somethings in it after putting starter back in.... didnt have time to tinker tonight...still think i might replace fly wheell with a high quality one just judging the previous guy seemed to go cheap or used onevery thing.....

wolfie
09-21-2011, 09:50 PM
Is it a rear mount-reverse starter or an under slung standard starter?

Might just need to be shimmed.

78_Tahiti
09-22-2011, 09:39 AM
Josh! 1 other thing to take note of, worn U-Joints in the driveline make a lot of noise out of the water. If you decide to pull the engine and have a better look at the flywheel/flexplate. Check for any added on balance weights. Most stroked engines need some weight added when balancing the rotating assembly! Summitracing.com has some great buys on flexplates/flywheels. A model that has an SFI rating will be heavier duty then a stock one.

Gill201035
09-22-2011, 09:21 PM
Starter is a reverse mount..... Pulled the motor tonight and the fly wheels missing teeth in four different spits.....the u joints do look worn so i will replace them..... I think i might have the stringers redone to they look fine but the fiber glass is ugly.... Also think im gonna replace the fuse block with an updated one..... Is the reason the fuse block is on the motor for a good ground or can i move it and run ground wires?mm thanks for all your inputguys... Josh

David
09-22-2011, 10:23 PM
I'm pretty sure the fuse block does not need to be grounded. As a matter of favt I'm sure of it. Mine is mounted on the back side of my dash.

78_Tahiti
09-23-2011, 01:23 AM
Most JetBoats have whats called a connector plate. Uusally mounted on the bell housing, that way to pull the engine you just unhook the boat side wiring. You can leave the engine wiring connected. They usually have a circuit breaker mounted underneath as well to protect the Dash & Ignition wiring. Just press to reset, and off you go. Fuses can be a pain sometimes. Heres how I did mine.
http://www.vintagejetboats.com/forum/index.php?topic=359.msg5009#msg5009

Gill201035
09-24-2011, 09:07 PM
Shes a matter of hours away from being back to life.... I bought a new block for the wiring with a reset witch as suggested and re wired it tonight i hope theyare all correct.... Also new flex plate sfi approved and double welded and double the thickness of the orignal........ Hopefully be on the water around ten in the morning woo hoo..... I gotta say you guys are awesome...... Thanks a ton for all the input..... Josh

3677

David
09-24-2011, 09:14 PM
Shes a matter of hours away from being back to life.... I bought a new block for the wiring with a reset witch as suggested and re wired it tonight i hope theyare all correct.... Also new flex plate sfi approved and double welded and double the thickness of the orignal........ Hopefully be on the water around ten in the morning woo hoo..... I gotta say you guys are awesome...... Thanks a ton for all the input..... Josh
Right on Josh... I have to agree with you on these guys being awesome here!!! I'm a bit biased though!!! LOL :cheers:

78_Tahiti
09-25-2011, 12:59 AM
Nice to hear you'll be back in the water so quickly! Lets have a few pictures of that awesome machine in its native habitat! :yesnod:

TIMINATOR
11-11-2011, 02:17 AM
Everybody discontinued the PROPER flywheel and ring gear for a reverse starter many years ago, also, there was NEVER the proper flexplate manufactured for reverse starter use. The HD flywheel ring gear was about .060 bigger in diameter. It was used in dump trucks and other heavy duty appllications. There is no way to shim the reverse deal closer to the flywheel/flexplate. Due to manufacturing tolerances, some boats have no issues, and some will forever chew up ring gears and bendixes. Our fix is to weld a small pad inside of the top of the starter hole to push the starter .030 to.060 closer, and then flycut the bottom of the hole and elongate the bolt holes. It works like a charm. If there is enough metal around the started hole we have occasionally drilled and tapped a hole for an adjustable bolt to push the starter closer to engagement, but if you do that you better make sure the starter bolts never come loose, or it will break the top of the bellhousing. Occasionally the Fords have the same problem, even in cars. We have done many dozen of these in Ford cars, and reverse mount boats. TIMINATOR

78_Tahiti
11-11-2011, 11:29 AM
Thats a great way to take up the lash. Seems that another option might be swapping out the bendix gear, with one that has a little different pitch on the gear teeth. Similiar to the 4 different versions the GM V-8 starter line uses. Working at specialty automotive electrical shop as a young man. I was shown there are many different versions of the starter spur gears, as well as the locking and engagement dogs. I wonder in todays market, with all of the different gear reduction type units out there. Perhaps you could mill a different aluminum end plate for one, that instead of just being able to rotate the drive motor/solenoid relationship, you make make it so you could adjust the spur gears distance from the flywheel/flexplate instead. Just kind of thinking out loud. :zwhistle:

H20MOFO
11-11-2011, 01:48 PM
Maybe I missed it when I read...but did the op ever check the starter engagement? As mentioned they are relatively easy to shim back and forth....but not up and down. My top mount starter was 2 tight(up and down) Would start half the time...grind half the time. I tried shimming the top hole to point the starter up kinda like adjusting a headlight...although it gained me a little clearance toward the tip of the pinion of the starter...it did zero for shimming the tail end. IMO the best way to deal with "up and down" shimming is by installing a set of offset dowels in the back of the motor/bellhousing. If I remember right they were made by moroso. Good luck.

78_Tahiti
11-13-2011, 06:43 PM
The offset dowel is a great idea Kreg! not very expensive or experimental either! prolly wouldn't take more then about .030 -.040" to fix a binding starter gear, or in the down postion to tighten up the gap! the mounting bolts would never know the difference with that small of a change in height either way!